07 DAYS MOUNT KENYA ROCK CLIMBING VIA NORMAL ROUTE – SIRIMON – CHOGORIA TRAVERSE

It’s crucial to clarify that the “Normal Route” on Mount Kenya when referring to technical rock climbing typically targets the South-East Face of Nelion Peak (5,188m). This route is usually accessed via the Naro Moru route to Austrian Hut.

Combining the Sirimon and Chogoria trekking routes with a technical rock climb of Nelion via the “Normal Route” presents a challenging and highly rewarding multi-faceted adventure on Mount Kenya. Here’s an overview of what this entails:

Trekking Ascent via Sirimon Route:

• Approach: Located on the northwestern side of the mountain, the Sirimon route is known for its gradual ascent, scenic beauty, and drier conditions.
• Experience: The trail winds through diverse vegetation zones, starting with montane forest, then transitioning to bamboo, giant heather, and finally moorland with giant lobelias and senecios. It’s generally considered less steep than Naro Moru, aiding in acclimatization.
• Scenery: Offers excellent views of the surrounding landscapes and a unique perspective of the mountain’s northern and western aspects. Wildlife sightings like zebras, bushbucks, and various bird species are possible in the lower sections.
• Huts/Campsites: The Sirimon route has well-established camps at Old Moses Camp (3,300m) and Shipton’s Camp (4,200m), offering accommodation before reaching the higher altitudes.
• Acclimatization: The gradual ascent profile of the Sirimon route makes it excellent for altitude acclimatization, crucial before attempting a technical climb.
• Duration: Typically takes 3-4 days to reach Shipton’s Camp, providing ample time to adjust to the altitude.

Technical Rock Climbing of Nelion via the “Normal Route” (South-East Face):

• Access: From Shipton’s Camp, you’ll typically hike towards Austrian Hut (4,790m), which serves as the base camp for the “Normal Route” on Nelion. This involves traversing towards the head of the Naro Moru valley.
• The “Normal Route”: This is a multi-pitch technical rock climb on the South-East Face of Nelion. It’s graded around IV+ (UIAA), involving sustained climbing on solid rock with some exposed sections.
• Experience: The climb typically involves around 15-20 pitches and can take a full day (8-12 hours) to ascend. It requires proficiency in rock climbing techniques, rope management, belaying, and rappelling.
• Guide: Hiring a highly experienced and certified mountain guide with technical climbing expertise is absolutely essential for attempting Nelion.
• Equipment: Requires a full range of technical climbing gear, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, rock shoes, belay devices, slings, carabiners, and potentially ice axe and crampons depending on conditions (especially for crossing the Lewis Glacier remnants).
• Summit: Reaching the summit of Nelion (5,188m) is a significant achievement, offering incredible panoramic views.
• Descent: Descent from Nelion typically involves abseiling down the climbing route.

Trekking Descent via Chogoria Route:

• Approach: After the Nelion climb and returning to Austrian Hut or a high camp, the descent is often made via the Chogoria route on the eastern side of the mountain.
• Experience: Chogoria is widely considered the most scenic trekking route on Mount Kenya. It offers a dramatic change in landscape, traversing through the stunning Gorges Valley, past Lake Michaelson, Hall Tarns, and numerous waterfalls.
• Scenery: Lush vegetation, unique Afro-alpine flora, and breathtaking views make the Chogoria descent a memorable experience.
• Huts/Campsites: The Chogoria route has basic bandas at Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (2,950m) and camping at various points like Mintos Hut (4,200m) and Roadhead Camp (3,300m).
• Duration: The descent via Chogoria typically takes 2-3 days to reach the park gate.

Overall Traverse:

This combined Sirimon ascent, technical climb of Nelion’s “Normal Route,” and Chogoria descent offers an incredibly diverse and challenging adventure:

• Variety: Experience the different ecosystems and perspectives of Mount Kenya from its drier northern side to the lush eastern slopes.
• Acclimatization: The gradual Sirimon ascent provides good acclimatization for the demanding climb.
• Technical Challenge: The “Normal Route” on Nelion offers a significant and rewarding technical rock climbing experience on a major African peak.
• Stunning Scenery: Enjoy the contrasting beauty of the Sirimon and Chogoria routes.
• Duration: Expect this entire traverse to take 6-8 days or more, depending on acclimatization schedules, climbing pace, and trekking speed.
• Logistics: Requires careful planning, experienced guides for both trekking and climbing, porters to carry gear, and appropriate permits for both the national park and technical climbing. Transportation between the different sides of the mountain needs to be organized.

This is a serious undertaking requiring a high level of fitness, trekking experience, rock climbing skills, and proper preparation. It is strongly advised to book with a reputable mountain guiding company that specializes in technical climbs on Mount Kenya.