While the standard Naro Moru and Chogoria routes focus on trekking to Point Lenana, a combination can be used as an approach and descent for technical climbs on the various peaks surrounding the Teleki Valley, such as Point John (4,883m). Here’s an overview of a potential technical climbing itinerary targeting Point John, utilizing the Naro Moru for approach and Chogoria for descent:
Trekking Ascent via Naro Moru Route:
- Approach: Located on the western side of the mountain, the Naro Moru route offers a direct and relatively fast access to the Teleki Valley and the base of several technical peaks.
- Experience: The trail is well-defined, though can be steep in sections like the “Vertical Bog.” You’ll ascend through montane forest, moorland, and into the alpine zone.
- Scenery: Offers impressive views of the main peaks (Batian and Nelion) and the Teleki Valley as you ascend.
- Huts/Campsites: Utilize Met Station (3,050m) and Mackinder’s Camp (4,200m) for acclimatization and as base camps.
- Duration: Typically takes 2-3 days to reach Mackinder’s Camp, providing acclimatization before the climb.
Technical Rock Climbing of Point John:
- Access: From Mackinder’s Camp, Point John is clearly visible. The approach involves hiking towards the base of the chosen climbing route on the peak.
- Routes: Point John offers several technical rock climbing routes of varying grades, generally ranging from III to V+ (UIAA). These routes involve multi-pitch climbing on solid rock, often with excellent exposure.
- Experience: Climbing Point John requires proficiency in rock climbing techniques, rope management, belaying, and rappelling. The climbs offer sustained interest and rewarding summit views.
- Guide: Hiring a highly experienced and certified mountain guide with technical climbing expertise is essential for climbing Point John. They will be familiar with the routes, safety procedures, and local conditions.
- Equipment: Requires a full range of technical climbing gear, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, rock shoes, belay devices, slings, carabiners, and potentially ice axe and crampons depending on the time of year and route conditions.
- Summit: Reaching the summit of Point John provides fantastic panoramic views of the Teleki Valley, the main peaks, and the surrounding landscape.
- Descent: Descent from Point John typically involves abseiling down the climbing route.
Trekking Descent via Chogoria Route:
- Approach: After the climb and returning to Mackinder’s Camp or a high camp in the Teleki Valley, the descent is often made via the Chogoria route on the eastern side of the mountain.
- Experience: Chogoria offers a dramatic and scenic contrast to the Naro Moru ascent. The trail traverses the stunning Gorges Valley, passing by Lake Michaelson, Hall Tarns, and numerous waterfalls.
- Scenery: Lush vegetation, unique Afro-alpine flora, and breathtaking views make the Chogoria descent a memorable experience.
- Huts/Campsites: Utilize camping along the Chogoria route or the basic bandas at Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (2,950m).
- Duration: The descent via Chogoria typically takes 2-3 days to reach the park gate.
Overall Traverse for Point John Climb:
This combined Naro Moru ascent, technical climb of Point John, and Chogoria descent offers a challenging and rewarding mountaineering adventure:
- Efficient Approach: Naro Moru provides relatively quick access to the climbing area.
- Technical Goal: Point John offers a fantastic objective for technical rock climbers with various route options.
- Scenic Descent: The Chogoria route provides a stunning and contrasting descent.
- Acclimatization: The trekking ascent allows for necessary acclimatization before the climb.
- Duration: Expect this entire traverse to take 5-7 days or more, depending on acclimatization, climbing time, and trekking pace.
- Logistics: Requires careful planning, experienced guides for both trekking and climbing, porters, and appropriate permits for the national park and technical climbing. Transportation between the different sides of the mountain needs to be organized.
Important Considerations:
- Technical Expertise: This itinerary is for experienced rock climbers. Hiring a qualified and certified mountain guide with technical climbing experience on Mount Kenya is absolutely crucial for safety and success.
- Equipment: Ensure you have all necessary technical climbing gear in excellent condition.
- Altitude: Be aware of the risks of altitude sickness and allow sufficient time for acclimatization.
- Weather: Mountain weather can change rapidly. Be prepared for varying conditions, including cold temperatures, wind, and potential snow or rain.
- Permits: Obtain the necessary permits from Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) for both trekking and technical climbing.
This overview provides a general framework. The specific routes chosen on Point John and the exact itinerary will depend on the climber’s experience, the guide’s recommendations, and current mountain conditions.
